Tuesday, April 2, 2024

Historical Shooting with the P-53 Enfield Rifle

I have just released a new book entitled Historical Shooting with the P-53 Enfield Rifle.  This book is intended as a complete guide to shooting Pattern 1853 rifles in a manner as close as possible to the way they were used in period.  Historical shooting focuses exclusively on a single aspect of living history—the use of arms—and is less concerned with a broad portrayal of life in the period than it is with the functional use of those weapons. Likewise, while a historical shooter should seek to shoot accurately, he is primarily focused upon using historically correct weapons, ammunition, equipment, and shooting techniques, and should not allow modern elements of the sport to influence his practice any more than necessary.

This book is the result of my efforts to apply this approach to shooting the British Pattern-53 Enfield rifle. My intention is to show a modern shooter who owns one of these weapons how I replicate authentic ammunition, operate and maintain it, and shoot it as well as possible using the shooting techniques and practices of the era with period-correct equipment. We begin with a brief history of the rifle itself and its ammunition and a discussion of the equipment appropriate for shooting it. Then we look at how to manufacture and package ammunition correctly; how to clean and maintain the rifle; how to load and perform the shooting portion of the manual of arms; how marksmanship was taught and practiced; how to work up a load for best target results; and how to conduct target practice with it. The primary source for all this information will be the Regulations for Conducting the Musketry Instruction of the Army from 1859, supplemented from other shooting manuals of the period, both civilian and military, in order to give a broader understanding of the art than a new recruit might have needed.  See the table of contents below.

This book is not intended as a history of Empire militaries, firearms, ammunition, or equipment—there are excellent sources available which cover all of those subjects in superb detail. Rather, this book is about shooting as it was done then, although I touch on some of the history for context.  I want potential readers to understand this, however, as I do not discuss all the various versions and variations of the rifle--this book is about shooting.

The perfect-bound, softcover book is lavishly illustrated with hundreds of photographs, illustrations, and diagrams, many in color.  It is approximately 175 pages in length in an 8.5x11 format.

As this book is intended for a narrow, extremely limited customer niche, I have not attempted to publish through an established publisher, preferring to self publish through Lulu.com.  The book is available for sale there now, but it will eventually be available through quite a few mainstream outlets such as Amazon, Barnes and Noble, etc.  Regardless, this is a print-on-demand product, so it will always take time for it to be delivered, even when published through someone offering overnight delivery.  As of right now, the link to purchase this book can be found HERE.

Here is the Table of Contents and some sample pages to give potential readers some idea of what to expect.



Thursday, February 15, 2024

Making Boxer .550 Cartridges for the P-53 Enfield Rifle

Introduction
At least three different versions of Enfield cartridges were made during the service life of the rifle, which we might call the “Pritchett cartridge,” the “Hay Cartridge,” and the “Boxer cartridge” respectively.  Here we will limit our discussion to the making of Boxer cartridges, which used the undersized .550 Boxer-style bullet.

Enfield cartridges are quite complex by comparison with some types of paper cartridges (although the design was common in Europe), which tended to be simple tubes to hold a bullet and powder.  Three types of paper are used:  A stiff paper tube forms the base of the powder chamber, which is wrapped with a thicker paper to complete the powder chamber.  The powder chamber is mated to the bullet and both are rolled together into a very thin paper, the outer wrapper, which is tied off at the base of the bullet with twine.  A “gummed band” is then used to secure the powder chamber inside the outer wrapper.

Tools and Supplies
Well-made Enfield cartridges are extremely dependent on the materials used.  The paper used must be of the correct thickness or the cartridge will not fit the bore of the rifle correctly, and the twine used to tie the cartridges must be thin or the choked end of the tube will not tie off securely, but it must be strong enough so that it does not break while being tied.
I cast my bullets using a mold from NOE bullet molds.  The original Boxer bullets had plugs made of boxwood, but these were later switched to clay plugs.  These can be made today from Sculpey, a type of clay widely available in craft stores.

The first Boxer cartridges were greased with a mix of 5 parts beeswax to one part tallow, which was later changed to pure beeswax when they discovered that over the long term the tallow reacted with lead to form a crust that made loading difficult.  Pure beeswax can be used today for Boxer cartridges, but unless the shooter intends to store his cartridges for very long periods there is no real reason not to use the original formula.  Since I use a beeswax and tallow mix for all my cartridges, and since I don’t store them long enough for the tallow to react with the lead bullets, I use that mix for my Enfield cartridges as well.

The paper used in period is no longer available, but through trial and error I found that 100% cotton rag paper of 16-pound weight works well for the outer wrapper, plain computer paper works well for the inner wrapper, and construction-type paper works well for the stiffener.  The twine used here is 3-ply linen twine of the type used by bookbinders.  These papers and the twine can be purchased online.

The gummed band used to secure the powder tube to the outer wrapper was originally just a strip of paper painted with glue, but for modern purposes half-inch masking tape serves admirably.

In period troops were issued three templates for cutting the paper, a mandrel for wrapping the cartridge, and a former for securing the end of the powder chamber so that the nose of the bullet could rest inside it.  We are fortunate in that Steve Sheldon of Forth Armory (forth-armoury.com/cartridge-template-kits.html#/) sells a set of formers and templates patterned precisely off the originals, and it is these which are shown here.  Note that the Forth Armory set comes with two mandrels, one of which he calls a “cheater” mandrel used for forming the cartridge without the bullet, which is then inserted separately.  This method is not historically correct, and I actually find that it gives a sloppier result, at least when I use it (although it seems to work well for Mr. Sheldon), so it is not demonstrated here.

Here is a list of all of the supplies necessary for cartridge making (See page XXX):
1. 16 lb. 100% cotton rag paper,
2. printer paper,
3. heavy paper,
4. 3-ply linen twine,
5. Forth Armory mandrel and former,
6. Forth Armory templates,
7. Boxer bullets,
8. plugs made from Sculpey,
9. 1.5F black powder,
10. half-inch masking tape, and,
11. grease (tallow and beeswax or just beeswax).

Procedure
Forth Armory kit.


1. Cut out all of your paper using the Forth Armory (q.v.) templates and a razor knife, not forgetting the three slits on the outer wrapper.

2. The board I use for making cartridges, with a choking cord and a supply of twine for tying off the cartridges.

3. Lay the stiffener as shown with the mandrel aligned with the long edge of the paper.

4. Roll the stiffener around the mandrel, taking care to keep it absolutely straight and tight.  Pull it toward yourself with sharp jerks to tighten the wind as you roll.  Stop when about half an inch of the short edge remains, as shown.

5. Lay the inner wrapper on top of and inside the edge of the stiffener so that about half an inch of the end extends past the edge of the mandrel.

6. Roll the inner wrapper and stiffener tightly together to form the powder chamber.  As with the stiffener, jerk the mandrel toward yourself as you roll to help ensure that it rolls very tightly.

7. Hold the end of the inner wrapper on the mandrel with the thumb and forefinger of one hand while pinching and twisting the end that extends past the mandrel.  Twist it in the same direction the paper was wound onto the mandrel.  Then push the end of the paper into the hollow end of the mandrel.

8. Use the bullet-shaped end of the former to drive the end of the paper from the inner wrapper fully into the hollow end of the mandrel.

9. A view of the hollow end of the mandrel with the end of the inner wrapper pushed inside.

10. Lay the powder tube (the inner wrapper and stiffener still on the mandrel) on the outer wrapper, positioned as shown, and lay the bullet as shown, with the nose of the bullet in the hollow.  The base of the bullet should be aligned with the end of the three slits cut in the outer wrapper.

11. Roll the bullet and powder tube inside the outer wrapper, then pinch the end of the mandrel with a thumb and forefinger to hold it together.

12. Pull the choking cord under the outer wrapper on the mandrel, aligning the cord with the bottom edge of the bullet.

13. Wrap the choking cord back over the top of the outer wrapper, then change your grip so that the tube is held with the thumb and middle finger while the index finger goes over the end of the paper.

14. Choke the end of the paper tightly (being careful not to cut the outer wrapper).

15. Remove the choking cord and wrap the  twine for tying around the end of the fleurette twice, then tie it off with two half hitches.

16. Cut the twine so that the ends do not extend past the edge of the cartridge.  Press the paper fleurette flat, and if any of the fleurette extends past the edge of the paper, trim that back, too.

17. Wrap a piece of half-inch masking tape (the green here would indicate civilian manufacture while the official arsenal used white, but both were issued to soldiers) around the seam where the end of the outer wrapper meets the inner wrapper in order to fix them together.  Remove the mandrel; it may be tight, so hold the outer wrapper end firmly and rotate the mandrel slightly back and forth until it will come free.

18. Place the cartridge in a rack and add your powder.  The original government charge was 2 1/2 drams, or 68.3 grains, of rifle powder.  I use 1.5Fg Swiss.

19. Pinch the end of the inner wrapper above the stiffener to squeeze it shut, then twist in the same direction the inner wrapper was wound onto the mandrel, and push downward to seat the tab thus formed in the upper end of the powder chamber.

20. A finished cartridge, showing how the tab is pushed down into the powder chamber.

21. Melt the grease and dip the bullet end of the cartridge into it up to the edge of the shoulder of the bullet.  Set aside to cool.

A finished Boxer cartridge.

After making the cartridges, they will need to be wrapped for carrying.  Watch this blog for a post about how to do that soon.

A wrapped arsenal pack of ten Boxer cartridges and a wrapped package of 75 percussion caps, both copied from originals.


 





Wednesday, January 24, 2024

Black Powder Revolver Myths

Introduction
It almost seems as though there is a near-religious hatred of research in the Black Powder community, with what I call “Red-neck lore,” or word of mouth “wisdom” being passed around among people who don’t (or won’t) read.  People often judge the quality of a fact according to how much they like the person presenting it or the length of time he’s been shooting, ignoring the sources he used (or the lack thereof).  Sadly, a lot of Red-neck lore gets repeated in modern books or “instructional” videos when the author or presenter hasn’t bothered to research something he just takes for granted because So-and-So said it, or “everyone knows it,” and this adds a patina of legitimacy to what is still just unsubstantiated nonsense.

Worse, people who know better will continue to at least tacitly promulgate these myths, either because they are too weak to risk offending someone or because they think people will misunderstand them if they call something by its proper name.  Sufferance is equal to consent.

In this article we will debunk ten of these myths about black powder revolvers.  The intention here isn’t to write detailed analyses (which would take a book) of all the Red-neck lore being spread out there, but just to give the facts with a few brief notes as to where to look for more information.  The myths here are in no particular order.

This article will certainly anger some people; it’s a constant source of amazement to see how people find themselves emotionally attached to some of these myths and who refuse to even consider that they might have been misled.  So be it.  Embrace intellectual honesty, it is better to accept correction than to continue to be wrong.

1.  The Remington 1858.
There is no Remington 1858, and there never was.  On 14 September 1858, Fordyce Beals filed patent no. 21,478 (look it up), which covered aspects of the loading lever used in some of the early Remington models.  Remington produced at least four revolvers from 1861-1863, two in army caliber (i.e., .44) and two in navy caliber (.36).  They then produced a new army-caliber revolver in 1863 which incorporated several changes to the older models, and since Remington already had an army-caliber revolver in production, the 1863 model came to be called the “New Model Army,” with the 1862 model then being called the “Old Model Army.”  Unfortunately, the NMA had a stamp on it mentioning the 1858 patent date, and people who don’t understand this think it’s the model number.  Thus, calling the New Model Army a Remington 1858 is both technically inaccurate and misleading.

The same could be said of the so-called “1851 Colt Navy” and the “1860 Colt Army,” but at least those spurious model numbers are closer to the real model years and so aren’t as misleading, but they should really be called the “Colt Old Model Navy” and Colt New Model Army,” respectively.

2.  You can’t weigh Black Powder.
If someone on an Internet forum talks about weighing black powder he will instantly be set upon by a voracious pack of “experts” insisting that black powder has to be measured by volume or the weapon will blow up.  This is one of the more ridiculous myths out there, and it came about because people don’t understand that a “grain” is actually a measure of weight using the avoirdupois system in which there are 7,000 grains to the pound, and that it has nothing to do with volume.

Most shooters use volumetric measures which are calibrated to approximate a weighed charge to make them easier to load with, and that measure is calibrated for the popular (but poor quality) Goex powder, which has a volume of approximately 0.07 cc’s/grain.  Different brands of powder have different densities, however, so that volumetric measure won’t throw the same charge of Swiss powder, for example, as it would with Goex, and with substitutes the problem is even worse.

Powder substitutes are designed to have roughly the same volume as real black powder for the same chamber pressure, but they are much less dense.  Thus, ten grains of Pyrodex, measured by volumetric measure, will only actually weigh 7.6 grains if it is put on a scale.  So in order to weigh Pyrodex, you have to take this into account.  For example, if someone wants a charge equivalent to 30 grains of Goex with Pyrodex, he will have to multiply the weight by 0.76, or 22.8 grains by weight.

For more, read this article: <https://historicalshooting.blogspot.com/2021/07/measuring-black-powder-weight-or-volume.html>.

3.  Colt lost their contract to produce revolvers for the army because a fire destroyed their plant, allowing Remington to take over.
I believed this myth for a long time, and even repeat it in my book, Historical Shooting with Civil War Arms, but was recently set straight by Garrett of the 11Bang-Bang YT channel.  In reality, the army was fed up with the price Colt was charging for the New Model Army revolvers, at $27.00 per unit, and demanded they reduce the price.  Colt, being run by Elijah Root by that point, refused, so the army turned to Remington, who agreed to sell them their New Model Army for only $17.00 per.

As a result, Colt stopped producing their NMA revolvers for the army in November of 1863, and even laid off a number of workers as a result.  Colt did experience a fire, but that didn’t happen until 4 January 1864, more than two months later, so it should be clear that the fire had nothing to do with Colt losing their contract.  For more on this myth, read:  Pate, Charles. The Colt Model 1860 Revolver. Woonsocket, RI: Andrew Mowbray Inc., 2017.

4.  The Colt Walker was the most powerful handgun until the introduction of the .357 Mangum.
This is one of those myths held by the “Walker Cult” (to steal a phrase) who just love the idea of these huge, clumsy revolvers, but it’s actually based purely on the hypothetical claim that the revolver could hold a lot of powder, so it had to be powerful, right?  Unfortunately, this specious theory gets shattered on the harsh rocks of reality when tested.

Jake of the “Everything Black Powder” channel (link below) decided to put this myth to the test.  First, the Walker is supposed to be able to take 50 grains of powder, but Jake was unable to force anything close to that charge into a revolver with a conical ball (it might barely be possible with a round ball).  He tried several different powders because they have different levels of compressibility.  He managed to get 60 grains of Pyrodex (see myth #2 above to see that it has much less volume per weight) when using a round ball, but this only produced a muzzle energy of 473 ft.-lbs.  He was able to force 45 grains of Goex 3F and a conical in, but only 40 grains of Swiss 3F since it compresses less.  The best result with any of those loads was with the Swiss, which produced a muzzle energy of 577 ft.-lbs.  Moreover, forcing those loads in required him to use tools to load, and resulted in damage to his loading lever; no soldier in the field would have been able to replicate those numbers, but we will accept the 577 figure as at least physically possible just for the sake of argument.

Jake then test fired .45 Colt cartridges (not Long Colt—that might be another myth later) with 40 grains of Swiss 2F (2F is historically correct) powder with a 255-grain bullet, which is a good analog for the civilian cartridges being sold at the time.  Many people think 40 grains is too much for .45 Colt, but numerous sources show that although the Army cartridges used less, the civilian cartridges sold at the time did actually have that much powder (see Kuhnhausen, J. The Colt Single Action Revolvers - A Shop Manual, Vols. I & II. Heritage Gun Books, 2001).  When fired from a Colt Model P (or Single Action Army), Jake got an average muzzle energy of 604 ft.-lbs., almost 30 ft.-lbs. more than the nearly impossible load for the Walker, thus proving that the commercial .45 Colt was significantly more powerful than the Walker.

Jake’s video can be seen here:  <https://youtu.be/-_EbMvLh6ZE>.

5. Cavalry troopers wore their revolvers butt forward so that they could draw them left-handed while they used their sabers in their right hands.
This is one of the sillier myths out there, if for no other reason than the logical idea that if a trooper has his saber in one hand and his revolver in the other, he has no third hand to hold the reins, making him useless.  Sabers were rarely used on foot; officers did use sabers in one hand and their revolvers in the other when leading infantry, but they were only using the saber to direct troops, not to fight, so there’s no need for the cross draw, even if it was possible. 

In addition, Whittaker (in his 1871 Volunteer Cavalry Instructions) gave specific instructions about how to use the revolver before switching to the saber:
    “The revolver on the right hip should have a cord fastened to it a yard long. The men should be practiced in firing at a target when passing at speed, and then dropping the pistol on the opposite side, to use the cord while they handle the sabre” (Whittaker 1871 pp. 14-15).

The myth arises because people can’t understand why else someone would wear a revolver butt forward, and because Cowboys did, in fact, use cross-draw holsters later, after the war, although these were worn on the left and drawn right-handed—no saber was involved.

A simple study of the facts, especially the sources of the period, should instantly dispel this myth, and yet it continues to persist among “arm chair cowboys.”  Note that the manuals of arms (e.g., Cooke’s 1864 cavalry manual) specify that the holster is to be worn at the “right side of the back,” that is, to the rear of the right hip.  Worn that way, even a slender cavalry trooper would find it almost impossible to reach entirely around himself to draw his pistol with his left hand.

The real reason for wearing the revolver butt forward is that with the long barrels on military revolvers it is very difficult to draw the revolver straight up out of the holster if the butt faces rearward.  This leads to the so-called “cavalry twist draw,” in which the handle is gripped with the right hand inverted (i.e., palm outward) and then drawn while rotating the muzzle forward.  Simple experimentation will make this plain.

6.  The cowboy load.
It is common for shooters today to load only five rounds in the cylinder of a six-shot revolver when using metallic cartridges so that the hammer can be let down onto an empty chamber.  The reason for doing this is that the Colt Model P (or Single-Action Army) has no safety pins or notches on the cylinder as found on earlier cap-and-ball revolvers so that the hammer could be put down between cylinders for safe carrying.  This method of loading is called the “cowboy” load today because it is thought that cowboys must have done it in period or else they’d have been killing one another accidentally every day.

The fact remains, however, that regardless of how much sense this might make for us today, there is little or no evidence for this practice in period.  In 1876 Colt published an advertisement for his Model P revolver containing instructions to load six rounds and pull the hammer back one click into what Colt called the “safety notch.”  Colt continued to publish identical instructions through to at least 1940 (the end of production).  In addition, the U.S. Army instructions for the Model P included exactly the same instructions.  See John Pitman’s The Pitman Notes on U.S. Martial Small Arms and Ammunition, 1776-1933, Vol 2.

Other examples from this period abound with the same information, for more, see this video:  <https://youtu.be/V-A7uokxQ-c>.

I am not recommending loading six rounds, and I would argue that it is dangerous to do so because it is possible that the notch on the hammer mechanism can break and in extreme cases might possibly allow the hammer to fall.  It is incredibly unlikely, and few accounts of such a misfire can be reliably documented (in other words, not just word of mouth, but actual records).  At the same time, we no longer rely on these obsolete weapons for combat (even if some folks might carry them today), and so having only five rounds is not very much of a loss given how we use them today.  But the myth of the cowboy load is just that—a myth.  It is a modern practice driven by hypothetical safety issues not driven by real, documented accidental discharges.

7.  Remington cylinder swapping.
Most people have seen Clint Eastwood in the movie where he empties his Remington, removes the cylinder, and replaces it with a fresh cylinder so he can keep firing.  This appeals to cowboy wannabes, especially ones who don’t practice loading much and find that it takes a long, long time to reload a revolver, especially with loose powder and ball.  They notice how easy Remington cylinders are to remove, and applying their “great brains” to the problem (research would be too hard), decide that it must have been done in period.  Some even go so far as to make leather pouches to hold extra cylinders on their gun belts, abandoning history utterly.

In reality, this is a modern idea; Civil War revolvers were not issued with multiple cylinders (although the early Colt Paterson did come with two cylinders), and there seems to be no evidence for the practice in military use, instead, they just carried multiple revolvers so they didn’t have to reload.  Indeed, after one battle in which several Southern bushwhackers from Mosby’s Rangers were captured, they were found to have an average of six revolvers each.  If cylinder swapping was done, why carry the extra revolvers—a significant weight and encumbrance?

Here it’s impossible to show definitive proof that no one ever carried multiple cylinders (and in history we should learn never to say never) for the simple reason that they didn’t write about it because it wasn’t done, and it’s rarely possible to prove a negative.  The evidence we do have for revolver usage, however, makes it clear that this was not a normal practice.

8.  G stands for graphite.
Black powder intended for use in firearms comes in several different granulations, commonly graded from 1F (Fg) to 4F (FFFFg), with 1F being the coarsest and 4F being the finest. The lower-case G indicates that the powder has been “glazed,” which means that is has been tumbled to polish the grains and free them from dust (Gibbons, Brett. Like Fire and Powder: Black Powder for the Modern Shooter. Privately Published, Kindle edition, 2021 p. 12). Contrary to popular opinion, the lower-case G does not stand for “graphite” (id. p. 95).

Nor is this process intended to make the powder “hotter,” or more powerful, as some claim:
    “Glazing gunpowder does not make it any stronger as some imagine; it is for the purpose of giving equal density to the grain and polish to the surface, rendering it less liable to absorb moisture, and better able to withstand knocking about.” (Russell, Alex. Illustrated Hand Book of Rifle Shooting, with an Appendix. Toronto: Hunter, Rose & Co, 1869, p. 71.)

9.  Finer granulations burn hotter.
Many modern shooters believe that finer powder is “hotter” than coarser powder and is also more powerful; they argue that using powder that is too fine can cause the weapon to explode. This is absolutely untrue—all black powder (of the same density) has exactly the same amount of energy.
    “Assuming the powder is the same density, a 70-grain charge of FFFFg contains the same amount of energetic material as a 70-grain charge of Fg. One is not “hotter” than the other. It is exactly the same material. Obviously, the crucial difference is that the 70-grain charge of FFFFg has vastly greater surface area exposed by its enormous number of small grains, while the Fg has a much smaller number of larger grains with far less exposed overall surface area. The FFFFg also doesn’t “burn faster,” it burns at exactly the same regression rate as the Fg, but because the particles of FFFFg are smaller, they’re burnt up in much less time than the Fg. This may be seen as rather subtle, but it is very important.” (Gibbons 2021 above, p. 109.)

So finer powder isn’t more powerful and doesn’t burn any faster, but it does burn up sooner because the grains are smaller and have less surface area. This means that when using a weapon with a short barrel, such as a revolver, coarser powder granulations may not have time to fully combust before the bullet leaves the muzzle, which would cause it to be wasted. This is why 3F powder is the most common choice for black-powder revolvers, whereas coarser granulations are better for rifles.

10.  Grease over chamber mouths and chain fires.
In this section we will cover two closely related myths at once, the first being the use of grease over the chamber mouths and the second being chain fires in cap-and-ball revolvers.  Many Internet experts demonstrate how to load cap and ball revolvers, finishing the process by slathering something over the chamber mouths.  They claim that they do this for two reasons, first, to push grease down the bore when the revolver is fired to help reduce fouling, and second, to prevent chain fires.  In actual fact, neither idea is completely wrong, the myth really comes from their misunderstanding of what they’re doing.

Strictly speaking, no grease is required to shoot a cap-and-ball revolver at all.  In fact, the instructions issued with civilian sales of Colt’s cap-and-ball revolvers make no mention of grease, implying that they were loaded with just powder and a bare ball; Colt only says that after firing, the revolvers should be disassembled and thoroughly cleaned and oiled.  We tend to think of a range day where we fire fifty or sixty rounds, and failing to use grease when doing so will result in a bore that is too fouled to permit good shooting, but we see little evidence that people normally used revolvers that way.  In combat six rounds might be fired, but the difficulty of reloading meant that no more than that would be fired from any one revolver (see above about carrying multiple revolvers) before the end of the engagement, and at that time the revolver could be cleaned at leisure.

Moreover, by the time of the Civil War and afterward, the evidence suggests that the vast majority of cap-and-ball revolvers were loaded with paper cartridges, not loose powder and ball.  Since paper cartridges came with greased bullets the grease was already there and didn’t need to be added.

Chain fires can happen in one of two general areas: at the chamber mouths or at the nipples.  People believe that by slathering grease over the chamber mouths they eliminate the chance of a chain fire, but sadly, this is untrue for two reasons.  First, as long as the balls fit correctly and the chamber mouths are not distorted (i.e., they are round), when the ball is rammed home it will take up the entire space inside the chamber so that no errant spark can get into the powder in adjoining chambers when the revolver fires.  One way to tell if the ball is of the correct size is to notice whether a thin ring of lead is cut off as the bullets are rammed; the ring of lead isn’t necessary, and if the chamber mouths are chamfered it can’t happen, but if the ring is cut that is proof that the chamber is sealed.

Second, assuming that the ball is undersized or the chamber mouth is distorted so that the bullet can’t seal it correctly, most kinds of grease won’t do any good, regardless.  Much of the time we see the Internet “experts” using soft, easily melted greases such as Crisco or Bore Butter.  When the weapon fires, the heat and the force of the explosion usually melts these kinds of materials and shakes them loose, leaving no protection at all.  They can be problematic even if the day is hot before firing starts because they are so soft that the sun alone can cause them to melt.  If this method is to be used successfully it is necessary to use a harder grease, such as the Ordnance Department’s recipe of tallow and beeswax, which must be scraped into place with a something like a knife blade.

Assuming properly sized balls, most chain fires actually happen at the rear of the chamber due to gaps between the caps and nipples.  This is caused by the fact that all the cap suppliers have different sizes, and not all of them fit well on all nipples.  This is often exacerbated by a shooter who, realizing that his caps are a bit loose, pinches them to make them stay on—a horrid and dangerous practice.

Thursday, January 18, 2024

No One Cares About Your Group Size

Talk to someone who has just come from the range, and in the majority of cases the first thing you’ll hear is the “group size” he achieved, by which he means the extreme spread of a group of shots.  The title of this article notwithstanding, group size does have some validity as a gauge of accuracy, but not a lot, especially taken by itself.  In this article we will explore why group size is a relatively meaningless way to analyze a shot group and the things that really should be considered in addition to group size.

Consider the two hypothetical target pictures here.  The starred black dots are the bullet hits, or “Points of Impact” (“POI”).  The dashed black rectangle represents the extreme size of that group of shots—the “Group Size.”  The red dot is the bullseye that the shooter was trying to hit, which we will call the “Intended Mean Point of Impact” (“IMPI”); in other words, he wanted his group of shots to be as close to that point as he could make them.  The blue dot marks the actual center of the group of shots, or the “Mean Point of Impact” (“MPI”) of the group.  The green arrow is the distance from the MPI to the IMPI.

Looking at the two targets, note that the black dashed rectangle is exactly the same size in both, which means that both groups have identical group sizes.  Yet even a casual glance at the targets will show that the group shown on Target A is far worse than that on Target B; anyone can see that, even without the information in this article.  Regardless, let’s go on an and analyze why B is better than A with an eye toward understanding how we should be gauging our shooting results.

In a perfect string of shots, all the POI would be exactly on the IMPI—in other words, every bullet would hit the bullseye directly and all the bullets would go through the same hole in the target.  In reality, that almost never happens, so a more realistic way of stating the goal is that we want two things:  First, we want the group to be as small as possible, and second, we want the center of the group of shots to be as close to the IMPI as possible.  To do that, we have to have a way of determining the center of the group, which we defined above as the MPI.  We can then simply measure the distance from the MPI to the IMPI.

One of the things that’s obvious when looking at the two targets is that Group A is much more spread out than is Group B.  Although they have exactly the same group size, Group B’s shots are much more closely packed together, with only one sloppy shot and one flyer.  Thus, it’s obvious that just knowing the group size tells us very little.  A better gauge is to calculate the Mean Radial Deviation, which is defined as the average straight-line distance of each shot from the MPI.  In the nineteenth century this was sometimes called the “Figure of Merit” (see link below).

The next thing that’s obvious about these targets is that the MPI of Group A is much farther from the IMPI than is the MPI of Group B—almost twice as far.  That means that not only is Group A “sloppier” than Group B, it’s also less accurate.

From this, it should be obvious that three things need to be considered when judging a group of shots:  First, the group size; second, how closely the shots are packed together; and third, how close the center of the group of shots is to the bullseye.  So knowing the group size is fine, but it really tells us very little.

This article was intended as a discussion of why group size isn’t nearly as important as it is generally taken to be rather than a “how to” piece.  To learn more about the Figure of Merit (mean radial deviation) and how to calculate it, including a link to a video demonstration of how to do it, see the article here:  The Figure of Merit.  Also, regular readers of this blog will probably be sick of reading about it by now, but the String Test is a faster, easier way to gauge all three factors discussed above in a single number; to learn more abut it, see the article here:  The String Test.

Saturday, November 25, 2023

Range Report 25NOV2023 Part II: Practicing with the Uberti Colt New Model Army

 


In part I of this range report I wrote about the experiments I have conducted with my replicated M1873 Colt .45 ammunition, believing that discussion sufficiently different from and unrelated to my subsequent practice with my Colt new Model Army reproduction as to need to be addressed in a separate article.

In part II, I will discuss today's range practice with my Uberti reproduction of a Colt New Model Army revolver, often called the Colt 1860 Army today.  I wrote a few weeks ago about comparing Johnston and Dow combustible cartridges with Kerr cartridges in my Colt (see the article HERE), but that shooting was all done from a rest to take the human factor out of the equation as much as possible in order to focus on the ammunition.  In this practice session I used only Kerr combustible cartridges, and all shooting was done offhand in order to test and improve the accuracy (not precision) of my shooting.  In addition to normal shooting, I also shot a table of fire using the "snap shooting" technique described in Captain Stanhope Blunt's Instructions in Rifle and Carbine Firing for the United States Army from 1889.

Given the fairly rudimentary sights on Civil War revolvers (especially Colts!) and their lack of adjustability we have to ask how important they were in actual combat, as opposed to in target shooting.  Captain Blunt suggested ignoring them completely and learning to aim instinctively, as if pointing your finger, saying:
832. Owing to the unsteady support that the hand gives to the weapon the methods of aiming previously prescribed for the rifle and carbine cannot be advantageously followed; this is especially true of the practice mounted, where the motion of the horse and the very limited time available for the delivery of the fire permit neither the steadiness nor deliberation so requisite for success with the other arms.
833. The best results will then be obtained by following the method of snap shooting; for which the pistol should be held raised and then quickly projected at the mark and fired without pause or any effort to align it upon the object, the action being somewhat similar to that employed in throwing a missile from the hand and from the same raised position of the arm. (Blunt 1889 p. 309.)

Blunt gave the following directions:
838. The clasp of the thumb and second and third fingers should be firm, the first finger being on the trigger and the little finger underneath the end of the handle. If the clasp is too high up on the handle the muzzle will be elevated; if too low, the muzzle will be depressed. The clasp should not be so tight as to communicate tremor to the pistol, yet sufficiently firm to sustain, when firing with ball cartridges, the force of the recoil. After the discharge the position of raise pistol will be resumed.
839. These motions will at first be executed rather slowly, the instructor correcting the positions if necessary, and the motions quickened as the soldier acquires the habit of leveling or projecting instinctively the pistol in the same man-ner that the forefinger would be pointed at an object. (id. p. 311.)

I strongly suspect that this method, or something very like it, was the norm in combat during the period, and, indeed, beyond, as it presages the later "point shooting" technique taught by Fairbairn, Applegate, Sykes, and others during WWII.  I do not practice this technique as often as I should, but plan to focus more heavily on it in future.  Normally, when practicing snap shooting I don't determine a String Test measurement (see below), instead opting to draw a 14 inch circle around the aiming point and simply calculating the number of hits within that circle since it's not a target technique, however, today I neglected to prepare any targets with circles, so I chose to use the string Test, and was pleasantly surprised by the results.

My ammunition was combustible cartridges with nitrated paper shells containing 25 grains of Schuetzen 3F powder under a Kerr bullet and dipped in a mixture of beeswax and tallow taken from the 1861 Ordnance Manuals.  To learn more about how I make combustible cartridges, read the article HERE.
Kerr combustible cartridges.

I judge the accuracy (as opposed to precision) of my shooting using the 19th-century method called the String Test, a system vastly superior to just looking at the group size since it takes both group size and the distance from the group to the intended mean point of impact in a single figure.  To learn how to use this system and why all historical shooters should do so, read the article HERE.

My Colt NMA, ammunition, and accouterments.

Shooting Conditions:  Lytle Creek Range, bright and sunny, 42 degrees, wind 9 mph (gusting to 22 mph) from 10:00, 52% humidity, barometer 30.08 inHg.

All shooting was done offhand at 15 yards using a full sight while aiming off to adjust fire.  Table of Fire Five was done using the above-mentioned snap shooting method.  Note that this article begins with Table of Fire Four because the first three Tables of Fire were done with my Colt conversion revolver, as discussed in part I of today's range report.

Table of Fire Four.
Table of Fire Four
6 rounds, string measurement 17 inches.
String Test: 2.8 in./rd.

Table of Fire Five: Snap Shooting.
Table of Fire Five: Snap Shooting
6 rounds, string measurement 19 inches.
String Test: 3.2 in./rd.
Note how the line of shots track down as I sought to overcome the first high shots, but how I drifted left in so doing.

Table of Fire Six.
Table of Fire Six
6 rounds, string measurement 11.5 inches.
String Test:  1.9 in./rd.!!!

Table of Fire Seven.
Table of Fire Seven
5 rounds, string measurement 12.5 inches.
String Test: 2.5 in./rd.

Table of Fire Eight.
Table of Fire Eight
6 rounds, string measurement 15.5 inches.
String Test: 2.6 in./rd.

Table of Fire Nine.
Table of Fire Nine
6 rounds, string measurement 14.5 inches.
String Test: 2.4 in./rd.

Conclusions:
I don't normally write blog posts about routine practice sessions unless I am conducting some kind of comparison or experiment, but I thought this session was sufficiently interesting to warrant posting it because the Colt NMA is new for me (this is my first actual practice session with it) and because of the snap shooting trial explained above.

As I have said before, I believe (although I can't prove it) that snap shooting of one sort or another was far more common in combat than any kind of aimed target-style shooting.  What I found particularly interesting today was the rather excellent String Test I achieved, which reflects a lot closer hitting than I usually get.  Although I have never done a String Test with snap shooting before, believing that since it's combat shooting all that counts is the ability to hit a man's chest somewhere, I can still see from previous experiences that the groups I got with my Remington New Model Army were larger than the group I got today with the Colt--and believe me, as someone who vastly prefers the Remington, that's hard to write.  I attribute this to the better balance of the Colt in my hand, a factor that really seems to matter a lot with snap shooting.  I plan to practice this a lot more.

The other shooting results pleased me as well.  This Colt shoots closer to point of aim thand does my Colt Navy, which means that I don't have to guess in aiming off, which leads to better consistency, which is the key to a good String Test result.  My personal standard of acceptable accuracy is a minimum of 3 in./rd. at 15 yards, and with my Remington I have been consistently getting sub-2 inch results, which I consider to be not only good, but probably at or near the limit of the accuracy of the piece.  I consider Colts to be inferior weapons in almost every way, so to come close to that kind of result today (albeit with only one sub-2 inch result) is extremely gratifying.

Still, the only easy day was yesterday, and the only score that's good enough is one better than any you've done before, so I have a lot more practice to do.

Range Report 25NOV2023 Part I: Replicating the M1873 .45 Colt Cartridge

In a break from my normal practice, I am dividing today's range report into two parts.  In this one, I will discuss my efforts to replicate the military's M1873 cartridge in .45 Colt (remember, there's no such thing as .45 Long Colt).  I should start by saying that a perfect reproduction is impossible, for several reasons, as will become apparent below; rather, this is my attempt to reproduce the cartridge as closely as I can using modern brass and priming with an eye toward at least getting the external ballistics right.

Fig. 1: Early military .45 copper Colt cartridges with the Benet primer. (Left, M1873 Colt, center and right, Schofield .45 Short Colt.)
Fig. 2: The M1873 Cartridge after Kuhnhausen 2001.

The M1873 is the first of the .45 Colt metallic cartridges used by the U.S. military.  They were made of copper rather than brass and employed a rather unusual priming system called the Benet primer invented in 1866 by Stephen V. BenĂ©t.  This system included a small cup containing fulminate of mercury (see figure 1 above) which was crimped inside the copper case.  From the outside, this looks like a rimfire cartridge, but as the picture above shows, it is not.

The ball used in the M1873 weighed between 250-255 grains, and had two grease grooves and a hollow base (see figure 2 above).  This was loaded over 30 grains of 2F black powder (yes, 2F, that is not a typo).

Fig. 3: Comparing the Accurate Bullet Mold bullet (left) with the original design (right).

In order to replicate the bullet used in the M1873 cartridge I contacted Accurate Bullet Molds for a custom mold.  The mold they provided yields a bullet which is very close to correct, but differs from the original in two respects (see figure 3 above).  First, the Accurate bullet has a crimp groove while the original does not, and second, the original has a hollow base, which my bullet does not.  The originals didn't use a crimp groove for reasons which are obscure, but appear to be related to the difficulty of mass production of metallic cartridges in period.  The hollow base can't be easily replicated by the method Accurate Bullet Molds uses to make their molds since it requires a special insert, but it turns out to be unnecessary.  The original bullet was .452 (to make it easier to load into early loading machinery) and it was felt that the hollow base would be necessary for the bullet to obturate into the rifling, but the Accurate bullet is .454 and doesn't need to obturate for proper fit so there is no need for a hollow base.  The Accurate bullet is .454 in diameter and weighs approximately 255 grains.

I load my cartridges into Starline center-primed brass cases (incidentally, the civilian version of the 1873 cartridges were brass and had center primers, much like mine).  To read about how I load the cartridges, read the article HERE.

Fig. 4: A batch of my replicated M1873 cartridges.

As the article in the link above shows, I started with 35 grains of 3F powder, but since I want to replicate the M873 correctly I have switched to using only 30 grains.  I believed that the 2F powder originally used in the M1873 cartridges would be less accurate since 2F takes longer to combust fully in a revolver barrel (which is why 2F is normally used for rifles while 3F is normally used for revolvers), so today's range session was intended to compare the two types of powder to see which was more accurate, and to see which came closer to the original in terms of muzzle velocity.  Unfortunately, my chronograph gave obviously spurious results (ranging from more than 3,000 fps to under 300 fps for the same loads), so that determination remains to be examined.  As to accuracy, however, my prediction failed, with the 2F and 3F having almost exactly the same accuracy, with the 2F being a very, very slight bit better (small enough to be within the margin of error of such a test).

Conditions:  Lytle Creek Range, bright and sunny, 42 degrees, wind 9 mph (gusting to 22 mph) from 10:00, 52% humidity, barometer 30.08 inHg.

All shooting was done with my Colt 1860 Conversion revolver from a rest (to take the human factor out of the equation as much as possible) at 15 yards.  All shooting was done at a 3 inch black dot using a full sight and a 6:00 hold without aiming off.  I fired three tables of fire, with 12 rounds with 30 grains of 3F Schetzen, 12 rounds with 30 grains of 2F Schuetzen, and 6 rounds of 35 grains of 3F Schuetzen.

I used the String Test to gauge the accuracy of my shooting.  To learn how the system works and why anyone doing historical shooting should be using this superb system to gauge accuracy, see the article HERE.

Fig. 5: Table of Fire One.

Table One:  30 grains of Schuetzen 3F.
12 rounds, string measurement 31.5 inches.
String Test: 2.6 in./rd.

Fig. 6: Table of Fire Two.
Table Two: 30 grains of Schuetzen 2F.
12 rounds, string measurement 29.5 inches.
String Test: 2.5 in./rd.

Fig. 7: Table of Fire Three.
Table Three:  35 grains of Schuetzen 3F.
6 rounds, string measurement 15.25 inches
String Test: 2.5 in./rd.

Conclusions:
My goals today were first, to see how close my replication of the M1873 cartridge was to the original, and second, to compare the accuracy of using 3F vs. 2F powder.  Finer 3F powder has always been used for revolvers, with short barrels, because it is completely consumed sooner (contrary to popular belief it does not burn any faster than coarser powder) than coarser powder, while rifles, with long barrels, use coarser powder so the bullet is more gradually accelerated in an effort to reduce stripping (in which the bullet starts out too fast and so strips over the rifling).  I expected that using 2F powder would mean that not all of the powder was fully consumed before the bullet left the muzzle, resulting in a lower muzzle velocity and correspondingly worse accuracy.  That expectation was not realized.  In fact, although I couldn't get my chronograph to work correctly and so couldn't compare muzzle velocities, I shot a third table with cartridges containing 35 grains of 3F just for comparison purposes, and got approximately the same accuracy with that load, indicating that the higher muzzle velocity it produces failed to provide any better accuracy.  But then, that's the thing about science:  You hypothesize, then you experiment, and your lovely, elegant hypotheses are often shattered on the harsh shoals of reality.

Check my blog soon for part II of this range session in which I practiced with my new Uberti 1860 Army revolver using Kerr combustible cartridges.  I felt that this experiment with the .45 Colt cartridges was different enough to get its own blog post, however, which is why I split the study into two parts.

Information on the M1873 .45 Colt cartridge in this article comes from:  Kuhnhausen, J. The Colt Single Action Revolvers - A Shop Manual, Vols. I & II. Heritage Gun Books, 2001.

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